It was Alan Partridge who famously uttered ‘there’s more to Ireland than this.’
The same could be said about Perpignan. It’s understandable why so many rugby league fans from the north of England head straight to Le Grand Cafe de la Poste when they arrive in the capital of French Catalonia.
At the foot of Le Castillet, the imposing, ancient fortification and city gate which is arguably Perpignan’s most famous landmark, there can be few better places to enjoy a pre-match beer in the entire sport the world over. Supporters from Leeds and St Helens, Leigh and Hull, Warrington and Castleford, all routinely congregate there ahead of facing Catalans Dragons, whose impressive Stade Gilbert Brutus home is just a short walk away.
And they may stay in the vicinity for the entire 24 or 48 hours of their trip given Perpignan is so warmly hospitable and enticing. But there is so, so much more to the city and wider region: There’s definitely more to Perpignan than this.
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That is why Les Dracs, in tandem with Perpignan Méditerranée tourism board, are so keen to open the eyes of incoming Super League fans to all there is to see. They want supporters to stay and explore the whole region and what it has to offer. And there is plenty.
Having been invited along to see Catalans’ recent clash with Wigan - a repeat of last year’s Grand Final and a belter of a game - they opened the doors to all their delights. It was enlightening. All within barely an half-hour’s drive, you can enjoy picture postcard villages and towns which house instant images at every turn.
Collioure, of course, is the most famous and a must-see whether by sea - as we did having ventured down the coast on a catamaran - or on foot to get a closer look at its intricate beauty. But Torreilles, where we stayed at the lovely boutique hotel Maison Gaia, and Tautavel, with its vineyards and fascinating history [it boasts the earliest human bones ever found in Europe dating to 350,000 BC] are similarly impressive.
Dining at K.Beach restaurant in Le Barcarès was another big hit and I’ll be hopefully heading back there for a new addition to the Bucket List: visiting The Lydia - an intriguing 1930s beached cruise liner - when it holds its annual Electrobeach Music Festival with crowds of up to 50,000 and huge names like Fatboy Slim, Erick Morillo and Calvin Harris. For me, however, Sainte Marie la Mer was the highlight. With its 13th century church, windy little streets, including the lovers’ passage and colourful floating umbrellas, it’s a quintessential Catalan village and seaside resort in one.
Having met its mayor Edmond Jorda during the pre-match hospitality at Stade Gilbert Brutus - one of so many things Catalans get spot-on when it comes to matchday experience - it was great to see him later welcome us to his village and see the obvious pride it evokes. Similarly, what a pleasure to meet his father Jacques Jorda, the last France coach to beat Great Britain or England. That was back in 1990 at Headingley.
By pure coincidence, I was there as a starry-eyed 11-year-old, going along to see icons like Garry Schofield, Martin Offiah, Mike Gregory and Shaun Edwards… Only to see them brought to their knees by French heroes Hugues Ratier, Giles Dumas and Thierry Valero. The legendary Malcolm Reilly was the Great Britain coach that day.
I shouldn’t really have reminded him. But it was lovely to get in touch with him after lunch and help exchange messages with the fellow 76-year-old Jorda - who recounted all the GB players when shown the teamlist - more than 30 years on. The passion for rugby league in this spectacular region, sitting in the shadow of the Pyrenees, truly runs as deep as anywhere.
Ryanair are currently running flights from Leeds Bradford Airport direct to Perpignan Saturday to Tuesday but there are hopes this could soon involve more fan-friendly Friday departures possibly with Monday returns. In fairness, there’s enough to enjoy to spend a week.
Obviously, the rugby league is immense; Catalans make gameday an event which is what Super League needs and a fine example to many others. But, don’t be fooled: they help offer so much more, too.
